Foodveler

Teochew Chendul

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Update: This business has ceased its operations.

Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul (槟榔律驰名潮州煎蕊) has an outlet at KOMTAR Walk, just a short walking distance from the original stall at Lebuh Keng Kwee. This outlet is easily spotted from the main road, but parking spaces at KOMTAR Walk is quite limited.

Although this outlet is air-conditioned, the always-open doors make cooling less effective. Nevertheless, this outlet is more presentable to tourists as there are proper tables and chairs, unlike the cramped shops near the original stall. Needless to say, the pricing here is higher than the latter.

Penang Chief Minister Lim Guan Eng is said to be a regular customer here. Not too surprising as this place is near the KOMTAR Tower.

The Original Ice Blended Teochew Chendul (潮州原味煎蕊沙, RM2.50) is a must-have dessert. The fine-grain ice shavings are given a bath of sugary concoction made of coconut milk and gula melaka. Accompanying ingredients are jelly noodles (rice flour colored with pandan leaf extract) and red beans.

This dessert does not fail to impress us. The key to the cendol’s appeal is the appropriate use of gula melaka (palm sugar). Unlike normal white sugar derived from cane, palm sugar possesses a different type of sweetness which does not overwhelm the taste buds, but is still able to leave a lingering sweet aftertaste.

The jelly noodles are springy and “fun” to eat, as their softness makes it an easy route down the throat. The red beans are just minor ingredients here, but serve an important role to contribute extra sweetness and fulfilling sensation.

For something more solid in today’s meal, we ordered the Fried Carrot Cake (炒萝卜糕, RM5.50). The pastry is made from rice flour mixed with Chinese radish. Bite-sized pieces are stir-fried with eggs, bean sprouts, Chinese chives (韭菜), garlic and soy sauce. The dish is then topped with shredded carrots as garnish.

Unfortunately, the Fried Carrot Cake does not have the “wok hei” (镬气) that we are looking for. The cooking is just as good as it is, but lacks the “wok hei” appeal that truly defines this dish.

As far as the cendol is concerned, the taste at this outlet is no different compared to the original stall. So far, the food has been below satisfactory, but I concede the fact that food is not this business’ strength. The price is slightly higher than the original stall in exchange for better dining environment.

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